Hurdling a class IV rapids!

I was looking up viewing the mountains, green trees and  the surrounding cliff feeling the breeze on my face, when the guide’s voice rang out, “Forward, one, two!”  Thirty eight days after Storm Sendong hit Northern Mindanao, I went river rafting alone.  There is that gnawing feeling to visit once more the long, winding river that gave fame to CdeO for the river rafting. I wanted to see how it looked now after being overrun by the flash flood from Bukidnon mountains. I wanted to know her again after she suffered and survived the violent and furious storm.  Just three days after the tragedy, I got SMS from Eco-Extreme Rafting that reservations are accepted already for rafting. Though I wanted to do it in the last days of December to beat my timelines,  my mourning for the calamity overrun my schedules.

With Patricia & Karir (Czech couple)

I was joined with Czech nationals (Patricia & Karir) in a smaller boat, after the guide convinced them to join us in the advance course.  They were originally booked for beginners, but the other group guests wanted to be in one boat all seven of them.  I found it so good, we were not crowded and we had a paddler aside from the guide!

The river bend getting so wide

So we started at Uguiaban bridge in Talakag, that same old feeling of rush for the rapids came again.  At first sight, there’s nothing much changes in the uppermost area but going down the bend was different.  Much of the boulders were washed away downstream and thrown on the banks, there were lot of changes in the topography.  There were areas having rapids before but now gone silent as it became deep. There were rapids that have gone smaller and were not as enthralling as before. At the river banks – houses were gone, vegetation uprooted, trees including agricultural crops were washed away.  Boulders are thrown in the banks, some portions of the river gone narrow and some got wide. Landslides can be seen in the mountain sides. We passed three bridges that was totally destroyed, undoubtedly affected the community traspo needs.  The port of starting point for beginners course was destroyed, the restaurant and entertainment facilities at the end point in Mambuaya was totally gone.  It was heart rending actually, but was grateful that the river is still vibrant – the sound of its gushing waters was too reviving. I still notice few bird species hovering the area – brahminy kite (banog or the lawin), herd of balinsasayaw and a blue kingfisher.

The resto and entertainment facility in Mambuaya used to stand here...

It was consoling that the river is still life-giving, an inspiration and a wonderful landmark for this beloved city. After more than a month, the green grass along the river bank have sprouted which is a sign of hope for me.  The river will flourish once more, the tragedy forgotten  as the days roll by. The adrenaline  rush was pulsating no doubt, not only for me but also for other guests.  And what a wonderful variation when in the third to last of the rapids – in the beginners run was class IV rapids! Yes, a class IV when it was only class II before.  The guide encouraged us to hurdle it and we were enthralled!  And right, we made it with no fear but much in high spirits.  In every run, my all consuming objective is not to be thrown out to the waters – the table top and Class IV rapids was a good test. Well, it gave me a good reason to aim for the extreme course in my future runs.

Such adrenaline rush!

The never ending thrill for the white waters  will keep me coming for the gripping rapids in Cagayan de Oro river.  It’s a promise!

Family of clown fish on anemone

Squeezing my second weekend this January, I met up with Angel in Cebu – not for the Sinulog Festival but for a dive in one of our favorite site in the south of the province.  Barely ten months ago, we were in Moalboal for the glorious sardines run.  But just a day before our trip, I learned that the sardine and threshers in Pescador Island are nowhere in sight.  It didn’t dampen our spirits though, it’s been four weeks since our last dive and we direly needed to be in the waters again.

Our friends in Moalboal welcomed us warmly, DM Geom of Cebu Dive Center and the Siggelkows of Moalboal Backpacker Lodge were so helpful and provided for our reservation needs. Torsten was in town and it’s good to see them both, the lodge is like home to us.  Arriving the dive center past 11am already, our dives were arranged all in the afternoon.  It was a blessing we catch up the van almost leaving for Moalboal when we got to the terminal.

Hardly a worm!

After a hurried lunch at the Chili Bar, we geared for our first dive.  Our guide Bebet dismissed Pescador, aside from the absence of the sardines, the waters could be choppy as it was afternoon already. The weather was perfect, the sun was not scorching and was somewhat shady.  Our first descent was at Talisay Point limiting our depth to 30 meters, unto a reef wall with overhangs and crevices. It houses variety of soft and hard corals, where macros carefully camouflaged for protection.  Coral crabs, cleaner shrimp on bubble coral, reef crab, clam digger on rubber coral.  We went inside a small cave and peek on holes for electric shell, with the torch light reflections it glowed in the dark.  The wall was decorated with anemones, maze coral, staghorns, and other branching corals.  Variety of anemone fish abound in the area, sighted also balloon corallimorph, sea fans in yellow, green and brown.  A shoal of shrimpfish decorated an overhang with whips and sea ferns.  We stayed longer on a wide coral area going around until we had our safety stop at five meters, still swimming around.  We made the ascent after 57 minutes.

Large gorgonians decorated the reef

Our boat went further west for Kasai for our next descent, and after a surface time of 55 minutes, we got back unto the waters and went down directly unto reef wall with active fish life decorated with a variety of colourful corals.  There were hawkfish, buttefly, angelfish, lionfish and nudis. I needed keen eyes for the macros – a blenny on a sandy area, worms and other invertebrates. A banded pipefish wiggled away from me to the corals.  We stayed most on a wide coral area again hopping around, a large green turtle graced us but swam fast away when other group of divers chased him around.  We found a puffer hiding in between coral branch, anthias hovering on corals were abundant, sea cucumbers, sea stars, worms, anemones, scorpion fish and many more.  We ascend after 50 minutes, the cold afternoon waters left us shivering.

Vibrant soft coral with coral crabs hiding

Although we planned for three dives, we dismissed the idea for a night dive.  Our brief escape in the town with two descents in its waters was a great way to quick start our dive pursuits for the year.  The mild sun on my skin and the sea air in my lungs revived my spirits, ready for waiting tasks back home.  There is always something different in every descent, new sightings and new learnings. It was our third visit but definitely not our last – that’s pure madness, I guess!

By then, I’m still in love with Moalboal sans the sardines run, but here’s hoping that they will be back in their home at Pescador, at the right time in the near future.

As a tradition I went for my concluding dive for 2011, and I have every reason to rejoice. After almost three years, I’ll be coming back to the wonderful Agutayan Island off Jasaan coast, a site I was enamored in the early days of my diving. Secondly, I’ll be diving with my dive mentor exclusive after more than two years, and most importantly my favorite dive buddy is coming over to join me for our last dive of the year.  Few days earlier, the weather forecast threatened a storm in Northern Mindanao on the dates but I was keeping my fingers crossed hoping that the conditions would still allow us.

True enough, we made it to Jasaan on a Saturday morning with bright sunny skies with no trace of overcast horizon. The previous night though was  a disaster, the flash flood from Cagayan de Oro river have wreck havoc on the communities along the river bank and lowland areas, it was a total nightmare for everyone.  My dive mentor was kind enough to arrange everything for the trip though hesitant at first, knowing for sure that visibility would be affected.

Aboard the bigger and wider Sakayan, we sped off to the island about five kilometers away from the shore.  The municipal waters which has always been blue, serene and beautiful now marred with tons of debris all floating around.  Just watching heaps of floating trash, one can judge the enormous wreckage in the city only God can tell how severe it was! I had a heavy heart watching the horizons as we continue to cruise for Agutayan.

Beneath the Mess

Approaching the white sand bar, we geared up, and prepared ourselves as if we’re unstoppable, so sure to soak our dried-up gills,  it’s been eight weeks since our last dive!  Our  indomitable spirits nagging us, you know how headstrong divers are.  Mario descend first to check conditions when we got to the Sanctuary, we noticed the current on the surface. Mario appeared after few minutes informing us that the visibility and current is manageable down – halleluiah! 

We descend past 11am already, as always diving with my mentor has the same old familiar feeling – so safe and comfortable, Angel and I had DM one on one.  We tried to maneuver the surface current as we reached for the bouyline for our final descend.  But just few meters down the surface, immersed in the cold waters, I totally forgot the clutters above us. We went around the slopes and had encounters of marine life, at least six turtles graced us – the last was a huge one on his back to us digging something in the reef crevice, perhaps feeding himself with some algae. He was so surprised to notice us, he scampered away and disappeared a cloud of silt before us. There were few nudis, worms, shrimps and other invertebrates, triggerfishes which we avoided for fear of attack.  There were sponges, seafans, variety of corals and tropical fishes that abound the area.  We ascend after 43 minutes with my air still at 1200 psi.

After our leisure lunch and some short nap, Mario summoned us for our next descent.  The floating debris continued to increase while the local fishermen roaming around searching what they could salvage from the waters. Our next descent was at Artificial Reefs (AR) area, where there was variety of models of these ARs – tires, concrete, steel. In variety of forms, they were planted around the sandy area, if not for these ARs now home to a variety of marine species, there would be nothing in the spot, probably no life will exist.  The area is a home too of the planted clams, now had grown in number and size.  Tropical fishes have now claimed the ARs as their home, gaily decorating the area. After having our safety stop on a shallow reef , we ascend after 55 minutes with my residual air at 1100 psi away from the boat.

Although we planned for three dives, we called it a day after the second dive.  The debris had swarmed the waters and leaving the area  late is not advisable.  Over us, we found the locals gathered many household effects from the waters which include furniture, clothing, chairs, tv set, range and many more.

Unstoppable Indeed

We arrived back in the city as if everything was in order. But how implausible it was, that we were still diving despite the storm. I learned later that on that Saturday morning under the sun, the flood continues to ravage other districts of Cagayan de Oro, while we are diving in Agutayan waters!  How foolish… Perhaps, I have been a fool since I decided to become a diver.

Angel and I couldn’t be more grateful how things were arranged perfectly for our dives.  I felt so spoiled for such gesture of God’s kindness and faithfulness.  Our year-end dive is a subtle statement of God’s abounding grace, generosity and tenderness on our part, without prejudice to the typhoon victims.   He  surely can calm the winds and the angry seas, He is unstoppable.

NB. 
Tropical Storm Sendong hit Cagayan de Oro on December 16, 2011.
Photos by Angel using Lumix TS2 with Ikelite casing.

Jellyfish Lagoon

Being a water person, diving and snorkeling most often is my agenda in trips and being around in search for interesting sites, I can name five which I recommend worthy to explore.  Although my hunt is still on-going I’m pretty sure there are still sites to discover around the country.  I have snorkeled in these spots, and I wasn’t disappointed.  Aside of the rich marine life and idyllic setting, all these spots are off beaten.  So getting there is in itself challenging making the journey more enthralling, or would I say truly enchanting.

Wreck as reefs

5. Lusong Gunboat. Located in Coron Bay in Lusong Island, this shallow wreck is one of the large concentration of WW II wrecks in the area. Lying from the surface about 10 meters, the wreck is very visible and watching the varied colorful marine life surrounding the area is wonderful.  Most wrecks are too deep for snorkel, so having one this shallow is too interesting for non-divers.

Rich fish life in marine sanctuary

4. Marine Sanctuary, Balicasag Island.  Off the captivating Panglao Island in Bohol, it’s an eco-tourism destination and maintained by Philippine Tourism Authority (PTA), it’s a marine life sanctuary. PTA and Philippine Navy jointly promote the island for underwater sports and as model for environmental and ecological preservation. It’s about 45 minutes by pumpboat from Alona Beach. It’s ideal for snorkeling, docking at fish sanctuary, feeding fish is wonderful as fish go near you up close, viewing deep down under with corals, sponges, star fishes, colorful fishes amidst deep blue waters is so breathtaking! I always believe that there’s much beauty deep down, more than what we see in the dry lands.

Blue river!

3. Enchanted River.  This blue river is situated in Hinatuan, Surigao Sur and going there is such a long trip.  But just watching the refreshing blue waters is truly enchanting.  The marine life consists of snappers, sweet lips and rabbit fish – viewing them through your goggles or mask surrounded by its blue waters can be too mesmerizing, wondering such specie thrive in a river.  They have grown in size and number and have claimed the blue waters as their home.  Feeding them is an added attraction, at 12:00 noon as if they have clocks, they all float-up for their feeds.  Wonderful sight!

Rich fish life in Shimizu!

2. Shimizu Island.  One of the captivating islets we hopped on in El Nido, its just one of those idyllic islands with pristine white beach with a backdrop of limestone cliffs. Just stepping into the shallow waters, you can already catch glimpse of large herd of tropical fish swarming the waters.  Shallow as one meter- sergeants, wrasses, damsels and other tropical species come near, so near your hand as you feed them.  I have never such encounter with fishes so tame, they are all around swimming in swarm.  So lovely!

Stingless jellyfish!

1. Tojoman Lagoon. A hidden paradise!  Nothing could be more wonderful than swimming with the stingless jellyfish not just in tens but millions of them.  Those brown jellies in varied sizes swimming and pulsating, so near you. So incredible indeed!  So friendly, one can touch. swim and play with these slimy brown creatures..  So serene, so beautiful.  The lagoon is secretly tucked in Bucas Grande islands in Surigao Norte, comparable if not at par with Jellyfish Lagoon in Palau.

The above sites are truly worthy for a visit, so give in to your adventurous spirit and have a wonderful aqua trip.  Don’t forget your mask, snorkel and sunscreen, its real hot out there!

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Christmas tree bristleworm among soft corals...

Surely, the underwater realm is teeming with a variety  forms of life.  Invertebrates, bivalves, sea slugs or nudis, bristleworms, mollusks, flatworms and more.  Slowly, I’m learning and getting more keen as I swam searching for anything known or unknown.  There is always something new to discover, unfold or unravel and everything is so transforming. I am not the same person every after my dive.  I am a changed person after I become a diver almost five years ago.

It’s more than respecting about the life in the depths.  Over and over I’m saying this -  it’s about passion, a love like life itself. It’s about meeting friends and understanding about their life. There are even more forms of life beyond what is visible, there are many microscopic organisms forming as part of the ecosystem. How vast it is – surely my experience is just a speck of the large water world!

Taking underwater photos of marine life is astonishing, sometimes taking organisms I hardly knew. Admittedly, the colorful underwater world is so captivating.  The bristleworm above was taken in Mantangale, beautifully shaped in spiral in white & yellow,  hardly as a worm!  I am amused that there’s  Christmas tree even underwater. 

School of Jacks

Diving for almost five years now, there has been lot of meeting up  with friends underwater – few astonishing, some endearing,  others surprising or mystifying but most of them so wonderful. The thrill of seeing these wondrous creatures has always been overwhelming, putting them in words is not enough, surely won’t give justice to describe how marvelous it’s always been.  Marine world completely blow me away, simply I fell in love with the underwater realm.

One of the species that I found magical and awe-inspiring is jack, a silvery fish belonging to the family of Barracudas, Tunas & Mackerels, Chubs, or Mullets.  Locally known as Talakitok or Trakito, the larger version is better known as Trevally.  As food fish, it’s superb and admittedly it’s one of my favorite. But I’m more interested of Jack out there in the wild, not on my dinner table. I better knew him in the deep, swimming coyly and gazing at me, at an arm’s length in his world.

Unity and harmony....

There are three remarkable spots so far where I had magical encounter with jacks – a large number of them or aptly described as in school.  Apo Islandwith its great marine life and healthy ecosystem, was teeming with bigeye jacks in school.

Glassy eyes stare!

For sure, the local community’s effort in preserving and protecting the surrounding waters was not futile.  Lining up and swimming in unison in the blue before me – what a sight!

To survive in one-mindedness...

Right in our very own Mantigue Island in Camiguin, when I first dove at the sanctuary I never expected an encounter with jacks, no one mentioned it to me.  Awed, when silvery jacks appeared before me, again in unison swimming coyly, as if listening to the vibration of my own movements.

Jacks in Tubbataha Reefs

There is some kind of magic that this humble Trakito can bring!     Lastly, in the great Tubbataha Reefs, large school of jacks decorated a sandy slope after I got mesmerized with a whaleshark & reef sharks parade.  They simply appeared like a wall, those huge glassy eyes staring at you.  Even with current, they hung in mid-water with flawless grace.  Their unity in going to one direction, or how easily they shift in opposite direction in accord is mind-boggling, as if someone is in command.  The school moves with quiet order and control.

Such majesty in oneness...

There is a majesty and power in the movement of a unified mass, a kind of beauty and harmony that can only come from moving and thinking as one.  It is still a mystery to me, indeed how vast the marine life to unravel.  My jacks in school is just one of its wonders!

NB.  Photos courtesy of Angel, using Olympus Tough 8000 and PT 045 as casing

Reef fish guides, still need more....

Being an avid reader I love books and I must admit it’s one of my weakness, needless to say my bookshelf is filled with an assortment of paperbacks or hard bounds I took fancy either for references or pleasure reading.  Recently however, I made addition to my collections which I think is inevitable as I got deeper in my love for the marine life.  I need to learn and know more for this grand quest of life beyond the depths.

I have gotten myself reef fish guides which I think not enough yet, considering million of sea fish species.  Now I am thinking about critters guide or even corals and other invertebrates.  Of course, it also includes dive guides – only two as of now and both were gift from my favorite dive buddy.  You can imagine, how voraciously I read the guides thinking about plans for the sites.  As of now, we focused ourselves in Philippine waters, there is still lot of sites to explore and discover.  Later, we can go beyond the borders, at the right time.

After finishing Air Enriched Diver lessons, I got now three diving manuals which are expected to be added when taking other specialty lessons.  There will be more books to have, I was dying for the world diving atlas – a big blue book written by Jack Jackson – so beautiful. I cringed though when I peek at the price!

Now, every time I went to the bookstore I searched first for dive guides or marine reference books, a slight change in choosing something to read and a modest addition for my bookshelf.

Surigao Sur morning twilight....

Few months back, I went south in the Caraga region to experience nature’s wonders in this remote corner in Mindanao. The trip actually was like shooting several birds with one stone – while on an official meeting, I visited three amazing spots.  Although I was reminding myself that we have work to do and it must be first things first – I was thrilled, I have wanted to visit these spots long time ago!

Surigao del Sur although still rustic in setting and often times with threatened peace and order situation has amazing wonders tucked in the rural areas.  It is dotted with islands and idyllic white beaches, has great marine life, endowed with rivers, falls and lakes.  The province is actually a remarkable destination for nature lovers, most of which are unspoiled and mysterious.

Enchanted River

I have never seen a blue river before – just this one and that’s a real wonder. It’s a remote place and the trip is long, it lies in Barangay Talisay in Hinatuan, one of the coastal towns in Surigao Sur.  Getting into the spot felt like you’re transported into another world in a different dimension, it’s a surreal experience.  Although the spot is now developed to cater tourist & visitors, the river is maintained in its original form.

Blue, blue river!

The bluish water is caused by the white pavement stone formation slanting towards the bed just like a wall.  Since it is white, the blue sky reflected just like what we see on white beaches with blue waters.  It’s about 30 feet deep, the water is salty and marine life exists.  There were sweetlips, snappers and rabbitfish which actually thrive in sea water!  This river is connected underneath with the sea, in fact there is a cave on its head believed to be direct to the deeps.  A nature’s wonder indeed!

Great for snorkeling!

Although diving is not allowed, a group of certified cave divers were granted to do exploratory dive, but it was too deep before they could reach its end – it was a bottomless pit!  The cold blue water is great for swimming, and with active fish life it is also great for snorkeling.

Tinuy-an Falls

The trip to Bislig City was also long, going through rough roads and getting into the forest – mountains, lush vegetations and hectares of untilled lands will meet you as you go your way.  From the entrance, in between is a wide clearing

Tinuy-an Falls

perhaps by nature is for people to watch its great splendor, a three-tiered falls dubbed as little Niagara due to its wide span of cascading waters.  It was too wonderful to behold from afar, like I was engulfed in such majesty!

Rafting for the falls!

It was so natural, with cool fresh air and green backdrop.  Going to the topmost is allowed and you can wade in the waters in every tier or get a body massage from the gushing waters – feels so good.  At the ground pool, by means of raft one can get nearer the falls but the water is too rough for swimming, but the sound of fierce fall of waters is too reviving.  Discovering this magnificent falls is worth the trip!

Britania Group

This group of islands has been in my list to visit, it was pure blessing since our lodgings was in San Agustin town so we had good access to the islands.  It has a total of 24 islets – all uninhabited, but only five are commonly visited by

Blue skies, torquoise waters, white sands!

tourists.  These islets belong to Barangay Britania, a coastal community which maintained two marine sanctuaries. The municipality of San Agustin is a partner for MRDP projects and a GEF site, a municipality active in preservation and protection of marine resources.

Buslon Islet

Although we were advised by the boatman to have an early cruise for the high tide, we left for the islands past twelve noon under the hot blazing sun!  But it was all perfect – all the three islets we hopped were with white pristine beach – Hagonoy, Naked and Buslon islands.  As it was during weekdays, the islands were all to ourselves – we swam and frolic to all our hearts content.  It was pure nature fun under the sun, surrounded with cool blue waters while watching the nearby islets. So serene, so beautiful, so wonderful!

Travel Notes

How to get to San Agustin:

CdO to Butuan  – Aircon bus at P 337.00
Butuan to San Francisco, Agusan del Sur – Aircon bus at P 142.00
San Francisco to Brgy. Britania, San Agustin – Non aircon bus at P 72.00 or P 80.00 by van

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Shark fin soup - bitter for my taste...

I never thought that this sensational menu would caught me flat-face yesterday, I had a sour smile while sitting in a Chinese diner here in CdeO while trying to look something to fill my hunger.  I have been supporting advocacy on no shark finning and signed petitions from groups and have been reading so much articles on marine protection and preservation. It was like a bomb reading shark fin in the menu right in front of  me! It’s been months since I last visited this place but I never notice before  fried shark fin and fin soup. I felt like throwing up!

Dead sharks gathered at a beach in Ecuador!

It pained me knowing that a number of shark died each year for such exotic and expensive dish.  Statistics show that 126 species of shark out of 140 are threatened with extinction.  All told, up to 70 million sharks are culled annually for the trade, despite the fact that 30% of shark species are currently endangered. Last month, California has signed into law the ban for shark finning, a victory over this anomalous slaughter of marine life.  Other countries are still fighting for this advocacy though.  But still the global shark population is suffering from this industry.  I hope, firmly hope that this trade will also be banned in the Philippines soon.

I wondered where they got their supply of shark meat, hopefully not in nearby waters in Mindanao.  Anyhow, I just decided never to patronize this diner anymore.

NB. Photos courtesy from Time magazine, online edition.

Coron horizons....

Coming back to Calamianes this year has been kind of melodramatic, why when I was all set to go a year ago – plane tickets paid and dive plans in place – it was cancelled to give way for another priority.  My heart sank, but it was a victory being able to give up desires over something for spiritual growth.  To appease myself, I promised to return early part of this year but again deferred and boldly set it in October.  This all-consuming passion to dive once more for the monsters keeps nagging me, my gills and fins were aching for it.  I have wanted to be in Coron once a year with my favorite dive buddy for wreck diving.

Glitches, No More?

Be careful what you wish, you might end up with it.  I gave Angel with incredulous look when he smiled and reminded me I wanted to be with him for the round trip passage to Coron – perhaps. I have prearranged plane tickets all the way to Calamian and back home to save leave from work. Well, we ended up taking the boat after our flight was cancelled and me coming back to Manila with him on the boat again.  Halleluiah – but with a price!  It’s a taboo for me to talk on here about finance issues, but I have to admit it cost me much for the penalties in changing my return flight home.

Waiting, queuing, negotiating, calls, arrangements, changing tickets, rushing to pier, and getting tickets.  It was exhaustive, but we made it though.  We were thankful we had other alternative after our flight was cancelled. It was miracle, we got tourist accommodation in adjoining bunks when the boat was filled with people.  But again, be careful….

Back to Paradise

Arriving midday with the scorching heat, I sighed with deep breath as we descend from the boat with quick steps down to the port. It was two years ago, I waited long for this homecoming.  I was smitten with Coron during my first visit, I went back three months later to explore more of its splendor.  All its wonders in the surface was indeed pristine and alluring – a perfect paradise in the last frontier.  And more enticing to me was its mysterious depths.

Blue world still, even from the wreck...

The shipwrecks in Coron is the second largest concentration of diveable World War II wrecks in the Pacific, sunk in September 24, 1944 just a year after SCUBA was invented by Sir Jacques Cousteau. .  Now almost seven decades underwater, it created vast artificial reefs as haven for varied marine species and wonderful spot for divers.  In the world, there are only two other wreck diving destinations that offer a comparable historic experience: Truk Lagoon in Central Pacific and Scapa Flow, off the Orkney Islands in Scotland. But the Coron wrecks win over these sites – it is less expensive to dive here and the water is warmer.

Coron sunset from Mt. Tapyas

As the remaining afternoon would be too short for island hopping, we dismissed the idea and opted to rediscover downtown Coron.  We walked around for over an hour and had a relaxing stop at BOG Café for coffee break, the cake & pastries were great and exactly what we fancied for our cravings! Thinking of the glorious sunset, Angel and I agreed for an afternoon climb to Mt. Tapyas – just to be fit and get away with the calories from the rich cheesecake.

Mt. Tapyas Cross

Angel was teasing me not to look tired as we passed five other groups as we climbed our way, we did the 700+ steps in 25 minutes!  We waited for sundown as we watched overlooking the town, outlying islands, calm waters and the surrounding hills. Then slowly, everything in the horizon turned reddish and golden as the setting sun ebbed down in the distance over the vast ocean. Such great splendor, it was my best sunset so far!  It was dark already when we descend, the lighted cross created a wonderful glow on the mountain top. We finished off our long day dipping in Maquinit Hotsprings  -  one thing I don’t miss when I’m in Coron.  Nothing could be more perfect than soaking in warm waters while gazing the stars above us –  it felt  so heavenly.  Famished we got back downtown to try Old House Resto, we ended having dinner in candle light as there was no electricity! We both love the food at the Old House.

Descend, Descend, Descend!

Thinking of additional three wrecks to explore thrilled me, arriving later as scheduled gave as another surprise – Irako Maru is in the list for our dives!  It was a perfect sunny Sunday as we cruised for over an hour northwest for our first descend, together with other six divers – all foreigners just like in my previous dives.  It seemed that divers from all corners of the world came unceasingly for these historic wrecks.

Holes and rusted bars of wreck

We took the giant step for our entry splashing the cold waters, I can’t wait to see Irako described as the longest and deepest wreck in the area.  We hold on to the bouy line as we descend slowly, it was all hazy until we catch glimpse of some solid form.  DM Nonoy briefed us to stay only outside and may penetrate some lighted portion.  He motioned that we go ahead of the others, the silts might be stirred and we would see nothing.  Admittedly, I was distracted of the monster I barely noticed the marine life around.  This large ship can not be explored in just one dive, at 147m long covering the whole stretch was impossible!  It has been literally stripped of anything – it is now mere skeletons. It is now a bare vast metal encrusted with hard corals and brownish rust.  We swam around a bit and reluctantly got back to the bouy line when our DM motioned for it.  As we slowly ascend having the safety stop, a large school of jackfish appeared nearby.  I went to take a closer look but sadly I went back deeper, which made me to do again for the three minutes safety stop.  It was a short dive at 36 minutes with 32.2m as my deepest.

Graceful flatworm floating before us...

We cruised shortly for our next site and had our early lunch as our surface interval.  Olympia Maru aka Morazan Maru is another new site to me, it was another large ship slightly smaller than Irako.  We hold on again for the bouy line as we descend directly on its port side as it was lying on its starboard side. Some kind of a wide surface, we found holes both square and round ones.  Feeling that familiar rush to get inside and explore its dark secrets!  We floated slowly as if flying careful not to stir the silts, felt so wonderful.  I challenged myself as we got into a small square hole for smooth entry and just flow inside like the waters. Following our DM as we penetrated and searched for something lurking in the dark corners, but not forgetting to make sure Angel was just around nearby. We spotted lionfish, scorpion fish, juveniles, a puffer and camouflaging colored clams.

A peacock lionfish!

The big cargo rooms and boiler rooms allows penetration and we practically roam around passing chambers going up and own and back again. Rusted bars, big iron wheel perhaps for the boilers and we saw the hole damaged by bomb strikes which disabled the ship.  The ray of light penetrating inside gave some interesting effect inside the dark rooms. I practically ignored my dive computers flashing signals, I just need to make most of my time down but covering the whole stretch of 122m is again impossible.  We finally headed for the bouy line to stabilize our depths, alas I needed a deco stop and was penalized for 8 minutes – first time so far! But with still more than 100 bars of air I had no worries, I had a total bottom time of 58 minutes with 24.4m as my deepest.

The ship mast encrusted with corals and rust

Our last descent was at East Tangat Wreck situated southwest side of Tangat Island in the  Bay, the wreck lies listing to starboard down a sandy slope.  It is a shallow wreck  in fact it was near the shores, I catch a glimpse of its end while our dive boat moored for our surface interval.  We had rounds and passed by rusted bars and few chambers, its mast is now covered with hard corals and brown rust.  We spotted sponges, hard and soft corals, crinoids and sea grasses clinging on bars. We spotted too at least four specie of colorful nudis – lavender, blue, white with orange antlers, and another bluish

Taking shelter in the wreck

crawling on the corals. There was flatworms, graceful lionfish, clown fish, sea squirts, bat fish and spade fish.  The marine life was wonderful enough for photos but again I got distracted with the wreck. We ascend after 49 minutes with 16.8m as my deepest.  All my residual air were still more than 100 bars in my tank for all three ascents.

Patience and Obedience in One

Last year was a test of obedience in pursuing my dive trips – plainly no Tubbataha and no Coron. Now, I know why. Just two months later after my Coron fiasco, the Tubbataha dream was answered unexpectedly! Surely it pays to wait and obey, and even with some glitches we made it to Calamian.  My trip this year was filled with treasured memories, new discoveries and new learnings.  It might be awhile before I can return but deep in me there is always that desire to exhaust the remaining wrecks in Coron waters.  They say, do not go for a trip like seeing 20 countries in a 30-day tour. Now, I say do not go for safari dive trip in Coron for you will miss to savor the beauty and mystery of these awesome monsters. Exactly why I am not in a rush…

Exactly why Angel and I still have reasons to be back in Calamianes, who knows it might be sooner!

NB.  Underwater photos courtesy of Angel, using his Olympus Tough 8000 with PT 045 as casing.

Related articles

• Diving in Coron Waters (cbartazo.wordpress.com)
• Revisiting Coron (cbartazo.wordpress.com)
• Missing the Monsters (cbartazo.wordpress.com)